Wine and Chocolate: a sommelier’s guide to the dark side…

Tim Morgan Sommelier, the VInomad, wine editorial and magazine
Tim Morgan Sommelier, the VInomad, wine editorial and magazine

By Tim Morgan, Senior Sommelier & Contributing Editor


Wine and chocolate. In theory, it sounds irresistible — two of the most complex, sensually satisfying substances on earth, combined in a single moment of indulgence.

In practice, it is a minefield.

The problem is that chocolate does terrible things to most wines. Its bitterness amplifies tannin. Its sweetness makes dry wines taste sour. Its fat coats the palate and mutes delicate flavours. Its intensity bulldozes anything subtle.

Most red wines — including many that claim to “go with chocolate” — taste metallic, thin, and miserable alongside serious dark chocolate. The pairing has been romanticised to death and understood almost not at all.

But when it works — when the right wine meets the right chocolate — the result is extraordinary. A synthesis of flavour that neither could achieve alone.

Here is how to get there.


The Rules


Rule 1: The Wine Must Be Sweeter Than the Chocolate

This is the most important rule. If the chocolate is sweeter than the wine, the wine will taste acidic, thin, and hollow. The wine’s sweetness must match or exceed the chocolate’s sweetness.

textMilk chocolate (very sweet)  →  Very sweet wine (PX, Recioto)
Dark 55% (moderately sweet)  →  Medium-sweet wine (Tawny Port, Banyuls)
Dark 70% (bittersweet)       →  Off-dry to medium-sweet (Fondillón, Maury)
Dark 85%+ (very bitter)      →  Fortified, oxidative (Oloroso, Madeira)
100% cacao (no sugar)        →  Almost impossible. Try Amontillado Sherry.

Rule 2: Match Intensity

A delicate Moscato d’Asti will be destroyed by 85% dark chocolate. An aged Tawny Port will overwhelm a piece of white chocolate. Match the power of the wine to the power of the chocolate.


Rule 3: Look for Flavour Bridges

The best pairings create connections between shared flavour compounds:

Flavour in ChocolateWine with Same Note
Coffee, espressoAged Tawny Port, Fondillón, Madeira
Caramel, toffeeOloroso Sherry, Tawny Port
Dried fruitPX Sherry, Recioto, Vin Santo
NutsAmontillado Sherry, Vin Jaune
Spice (cinnamon, vanilla)Banyuls, Maury, Grenache-based dessert wines
Red berriesBrachetto d’Acqui, Recioto della Valpolicella
Smoke, leatherMadeira (Malmsey), aged Port

The Pairings


🍫 Milk Chocolate

Character: Sweet, creamy, mild, vanilla, caramel.

WineWhy It Works
Moscato d’AstiLight, gently sweet, low alcohol — the bubbly sweetness complements without competing
Pedro Ximénez SherryIntensely sweet, raisined, unctuous — matches milk chocolate’s sweetness note for note
Rutherglen MuscatAustralian fortified dessert wine — toffee, raisin, orange peel — gorgeous with milk chocolate
Ruby Port (basic)Simple, fruity, sweet — an easy, crowd-pleasing pairing

🍫 Dark Chocolate (55–65%)

Character: Moderately sweet, cocoa-rich, smooth, hints of fruit and vanilla.

WineWhy It Works
Banyuls (Roussillon)Grenache-based vin doux naturel — red fruit, chocolate, spice. The benchmark chocolate pairing in French gastronomy.
Maury (Roussillon)Banyuls’ neighbour — slightly more structured, equally magnificent with chocolate
Recioto della ValpolicellaSweet red from Veneto — cherry, chocolate, spice. Italian perfection.
Tawny Port (20 Year)Caramel, nuts, dried fruit — the oxidative complexity mirrors the chocolate’s cocoa notes

The perfect bite: A square of 60% dark chocolate from a single-origin Venezuelan bean, with a small glass of Banyuls Grand Cru. The chocolate melts. The wine follows. They meet somewhere in the middle — a shared language of cocoa, spice, and dark fruit.


🍫 Dark Chocolate (70–80%)

Character: Bittersweet, intense, less sugar, pronounced cocoa, earthy, sometimes fruity or smoky depending on origin.

WineWhy It Works
FondillónOur mythical Alicante wine. The rancio complexity — caramel, walnut, fig — creates extraordinary flavour bridges with high-cocoa chocolate.
Oloroso SherryDry but rich, nutty, oxidative — the bitterness of the chocolate is tempered by the wine’s weight and complexity
Madeira (Bual or Malmsey)Caramel, toffee, burnt sugar, acidity — the acidity is key, cutting through the chocolate’s fat
Maury Vintage (aged)More structured, more complex than young Maury — handles the bitterness beautifully
AmaroneNot sweet, but so rich and concentrated that it holds its own against intense dark chocolate. Dried cherry + bitter cocoa = compelling.

🍫 Dark Chocolate (85%+)

Character: Intensely bitter, very low sugar, raw cocoa power, astringent, earthy, smoky.

This is the hardest pairing in the chocolate world. The bitterness is extreme. Most wines will be overwhelmed.

WineWhy It Works
Amontillado SherryDry, nutty, oxidative, with enough complexity and weight to stand beside extreme bitterness
Palo Cortado SherryRicher than Amontillado — combines nuttiness with a Merlot-like roundness that softens the chocolate’s edge
Old Madeira (Verdelho, Bual)Decades of ageing create a complexity and acidity that can match almost anything
Armagnac (or Cognac)Not wine, strictly speaking — but barrel-aged brandy may be the single best partner for 85%+ chocolate. The oak, the fruit, the warmth, the sweetness.

🍫 White Chocolate

Character: Very sweet, buttery, vanilla, cream, no cocoa solids.

White chocolate is not technically chocolate — it contains cocoa butter but no cocoa solids. Its sweetness and creaminess make it easier to pair than dark chocolate, but it still demands sweet wines.

WineWhy It Works
SauternesHoney, apricot, vanilla — mirrors white chocolate’s sweetness with infinitely more complexity
Tokaji AszúBotrytised sweetness and acidity — beautiful with white chocolate and tropical fruit
Ice Wine (Eiswein)Intensely sweet, very acidic — cuts the richness
Moscato d’AstiLight, fizzy, peachy — playful and delightful

🍫 Chocolate Desserts

DessertWineWhy
Chocolate fondant / lava cakeBanyuls Grand CruWarm, gooey chocolate = warm, generous Grenache dessert wine
Chocolate mousseChampagne (Demi-Sec)Airy mousse + bubbles = textural magic. Sweetness in the Champagne matches the dessert.
Chocolate tart20 Year Tawny PortDense, rich tart = nutty, complex, concentrated Port
ProfiterolesRecioto della ValpolicellaPastry + chocolate sauce + cream = sweet, fruity Italian red
Chocolate souffléMaury VintageDelicate, elevated chocolate = elegant, aged dessert wine
Chocolate trufflesCognac, Armagnac, aged RumThe after-dinner classic. Spirit + truffle = pure indulgence.
BrowniesRuby Port, Zinfandel (late harvest)Fudgy, sweet, casual — match the mood
Chocolate ice creamPX Sherry (drizzled on top)Pour the PX directly over the ice cream. Trust me.

What Does NOT Work

WineWith ChocolateWhy It Fails
Cabernet SauvignonAny chocolateTannin + chocolate bitterness = metallic horror
Dry Champagne (Brut)Dark chocolateNot sweet enough. Tastes sour.
Sauvignon BlancAny chocolateToo lean, too herbal. Complete mismatch.
Pinot GrigioAny chocolateToo neutral. Disappears.
ChiantiAny chocolateHigh acid + tannin + chocolate bitterness = disaster

Tim Morgan is a London-based sommelier and wine writer.