By The VInomad
There are famous wineries, and then there is Giacomo Conterno. To speak of Barolo without mentioning this estate is like discussing classical music without Beethoven — technically possible, but fundamentally incomplete.
The Conterno family has been making wine in Serralunga d’Alba since 1908. Four generations. One philosophy. No compromise. While the rest of Barolo spent the late 20th century debating tradition versus modernity — large oak versus barriques, long maceration versus short — Conterno never wavered. The approach here is the same as it was decades ago: extended maceration, ageing in large Slavonian oak botti, and a patience that borders on the monastic.
Today, under the stewardship of Roberto Conterno, the estate produces what many consider the single greatest expression of Nebbiolo on earth. Not the most approachable. Not the most modern. Simply the most profound.
Here are the wines from a recent tasting in the cellars beneath Serralunga.
The Wines
🍷 Giacomo Conterno Barbera d’Alba “Cascina Francia” — Piedmont
Vintage tasted: 2021
Grape: 100% Barbera
Alcohol: 14.5%
Ageing: 12 months in large Slavonian oak botti
The VInomad’s Score: 90/100
Nose: Vivid and immediate. Dark cherry, ripe plum, a burst of violets. Beneath the fruit, a subtle earthiness — iron, wet clay — and a hint of dried Mediterranean herbs. No oak dominance whatsoever. This is pure Barbera, unmasked.
Palate: Juicy and electric. Barbera’s hallmark acidity is on full display — bright, almost startling — but the fruit weight is substantial enough to balance it completely. Dark cherry and blackberry flood the mid-palate, with a savoury undertow of olive tapenade and blood orange. The texture is silky, the tannins barely perceptible.
Finish: Medium-long, vibrant, with a persistent sour-cherry lift that makes you reach for another sip immediately.
Food pairing: Fresh egg pasta with ragù. Vitello tonnato. Roasted duck. Pizza with truffle. This is the ultimate Italian table wine — versatile, energetic, endlessly drinkable.
The verdict: In any other estate, this would be the star of the range. Here, it is merely the opening act. But what an opening act — one of the finest Barbera d’Alba made anywhere, year after year.
“Most producers would kill for a ‘second wine’ this good. At Conterno, it’s just the warm-up.”
— The VInomad